![]() ![]() This is actually one of the most kick back prone cuts you can make. A person could even shape feet into the edge banding skirt so the board is only sitting on four points. Creating a bit of a lip on the bottom with edge banding that was thicker than field board would make the board more stable on a flattish surface. Besides probably being the fastest, least hassle way of doing it (short of CNC) it would allow your field to be a nice veneer plywood which would be much more stable than a wide solid wood plank and cheaper to boot. After filling the grooves but before final sanding, I'd wrap the grooved board with an edge trim in either a matching or contrasting wood species. ![]() I'd probably still use the table saw to cut the grooves (if I was in my shop I'd use a radial arm) working outwards like bondcliff laid out. You'd have to customize it to support the depth you want so that's another layer of complexity but none of it is super hard cutting / joinery wise.Īnd of course if you want to go crazy you could look into desktop CNC routers of your own but then the cost / complexity levels go up fast! That should give you an idea of what kind of project you'd be looking at. ![]() And a full size router / router table set up would be more expensive / larger (not sure if you're shop size limited) but would give you a lot more flexibility / power for future stuff.Ī quick google (no endorsement, just the first option I found) shows this plan: Is building a router table something you're be open to? With a trim router, a sheet of good flat plywood and a few other part you could put it together for a couple of hundred bucks. The challenge with the router table is you'd need at least as much fence depth as 1/2 the size of the largest board you're looking to make which seems like it would be 10" or so? That's a fairly large router table size and I'm not sure any of the tabletop router tables that you can get at big box stores would get you that depth. ![]() If you think you'd only be interested in small bit work, you could get away with a trim router which would be cheaper / smaller than a full size router. If you're looking to make a bunch yourself then I think the best option would be a woodworking router mounted in a router table with a fence. If you're looking to make one board, an option might be a maker space with a CNC router to cut thin lines if there's one near you. They do make microkerf blades but the lowest I've ever seen is 1/16" which still seems wide compared to the images I've seen. My initial thought was the same at bondcliff but then I looked at some go boards and it looks like the kerf of a table saw blade would be a lot wider than the lines in a typical go board. Posted by bondcliff at 1:21 PM on January 3 This is exactly how I'd do it though and I think it'd be pretty safe and be easier than using the router, as well as more accurate. I am not a woodworking instructor, just an amateur woodworker. You could even use some contrasting wood to make it all fancy-like. If you weren't planning on putting the grooves all the way to the edge, then just do it this way and then make frame to go around it with miters, as you would make a picture frame. They're ok for carving irregular edges, like for doing inlay. The slip up will probably come when you're almost done.Īnd my experience using a Dremel for a router has not been good. One slight slip up and you've ruined the work. Unless you have a router table (and even if you have one) cutting perfectly straight lines with a router leaves a lot of room for error. This will take care of any slight errors. You might even want to start in the middle of the board and work your way to the edge, and then cut the edges off at the final grid line. Put a 1" spacer (I use machinists 123 blocks) Between the edge of the board and the fence, and set the fence. Then, turn off the table saw and put the board back over the blade so that the (non-turning) blade is holding the board in one of the grooves. Normally you wouldn't cross cut with the fence, but I think if the blade is only protruding a little bit from the table you're probably not going to have to worry about kickback. Make sure as you move the fence you know where the blade is at all times. Use something to push the board down when it passes over the blade. Run the left side over the blade, turn the board 180 degrees, run the right side, turn it 90 degrees, run the top side, turn 180, run the bottom side. Set the fence at 1" with the blade barely protruding from the table. Let's say you wanted 1" between the grids. If the grooves are going to go all the way to the edge can you just cut them with the table saw? Just raise the blade a hair and run the board along the fence each way, move the fence a bit (use some sort of spacer to move it a consistent distance each time) and repeat. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |